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NICKEL-FREE JEWELRY

COMMON QUESTIONS & ANSWERS

     

DaMa supplies a full lne of "nickel-free" products worldwide. Our products have been accepted in every country currently engaged in regulating the use of nickel in fashion jewelry. We have done a considerable amount of reseach in our quest to provice reliable and safe products. The MJSA has been very helpful in providing us with information, as has the British Jeweler's Association. We hpe tthis information will help you in meeting the "nickel-free" challenge. However, if you require further assistance please do not hesitate to contact us.

Is Nickel Really Harmful?
Approximately 10% (some say much higher) of the female population and roughly 2% of the male population suffer from what is known as nickel dermatitis. Those afflicted suffer red, itchy rashes on skin that has come into prolonged contact with products containing nickel.

A person must become sensitized to nickel during his/her lifetime to suffer nickel dermatitis. This sensitization is thought to occur primarily during the healing process following ear or skin piercing with posts containing nickel. Nickel sensitization can also be caused by years of wearing nickel-containing products.
 
Why is Nickel-Free So Important?
The term "nickel-free" has been used by retailers to indicate to the final consumer that a particular product contains no nickel and, therefore, would not cause a nickel-related allergic reaction. Theoretically, by eliminating the nickel, retailers can attract people formerly unable to wear fashion jewelry.

However, nickel is a natural element and one, which is found at least in trace amounts in virtually every metal compound. It is almost impossible to completely eliminate nickel. The questions then become: At what level is this trace amount insignificant?
 
What is Going On In Europe?
The first to officially recognize nickel allergy as a problem, the European Community (EC) has drafted a Nickel Directive to regulate the use of nickel and standardize its use within all member countries. The regulations were established to reduce the amount of nickel used and, therefore, eliminate the incidence of nickel sensitization and nickel dermatitis. It DOES NOT regulate or define the term "nickel-free."
 
What Does the Directive Actually Say?
Skin-piercing products - Nickel may not be used "in post assemblies which are inserted into pierced ears and other pierced parts of the body during epithalization (healing) of the wound caused by piercing Ö unless the post assemblies are homogeneous and the concentration of nickel is less than 0.05%."

Products coming into direct contact with the skin - Nickel may not be used "in products intended to come in direct and prolonged contact with the skin Ö if the rate of nickel released from any one part of the product contacting the skin is greater than 0.5 micrograms of nickel per square centimeter per week (0.5 ug/cm2/week)
 
What are EC Member Countries Doing About Nickel-Free?
Germany: Ear post assemblies used for piercing must comply with the Directive. piercing posts containing more than 0.05% nickel are prohibited. According to German government, other jewelry coming into direct contact with skin must carry a warning label in German if it releases more than (0.5 ug/cm2/week). Germany is interpreting the Directive's ruling on piercing posts as meaning that products containing less than 0.05% nickel can be labeled "nickel-free."

Denmark: According to Danish Ministry of the Environment, products coming into direct contact with the skin, including piercing posts, cannot be sold by manufacturers or importers if the rate of nickel release exceeds 0.05/ug/cm2/week.

Sweden: The Swedish Board of Health and Welfare will not allow jewelry to be sold by manufacturers or importers if the nickel content exceeds 0.05%

United Kingdom: The British Trading Standards body LACOTS has formally regulated the use of the term "nickel-free". Nickel at concentrations of 0.05% were thought to not cause nickel-related reactions. However, tests performed showed that only in concentrations less than 100 ppm were allergic reactions prevented. According to LACOTS, jewelry labeled "nickel-free" must cannot contain more the 0.01% (100 ppm) nickel. For jewelry which does not release nickel, but which is not necessarily "nickel-free", the British Jewelry Association is planning some type of logo to indicate to the consumer that the product complies with the Directive.
 
What Is Happening In The United States?
Currently, there are no regulations governing the use of nickel or the use of the term "nickel-free". Many retailers, however, have already begun to promote products as "nickel-free". Jewelry manufacturers are researching the issue and making their own determinations.

In manufacturing our nickel-free earring clutches, DaMa has chosen to follow the LACOTS guidelines. Our nickel-free products contain less than 0.01% or 100 ppm of nickel. We feel that the LACOTS research clearly shows that nickel-related reactions are only prevented when the trace amount of nickel is at 0.01% or lower. Therefore, we believe that this is the only way to safely label "nickel-free " in this market and in others.
 
How Do You Test For Nickel In A Product?
There are many ways to test for nickel - including two commonly used tests; on tests for nickel content; the other tests for nickel release.

Atomic Absorption Test for Nickel Content: uses a pectrophotometer to detect the presence of various elements.
Pros
  • Very accurate, easilty quantified
  • results are easy to read and are expressed in percent of nickel mass or in parts per million (e.g. 0.01% or 100 ppm)
Cons
  • somewhat expensive and time consuming because each piece has to be tested individually; performed with sophisticated testing equipment
  • not practical to test every shipment of goods this way
 
Diemthyglyoxime (DMG) Swab Test for Nickel Release: uses a solution of diemthyglyoxime, alcohol and ammonium hydroxide in water. The product is swabbed with the solution. If the swab shows a pink to red color, the level of nickel exceeds 0.5ug/cm2/week.
Pros
  • inexpensive and easy to perform; results are obtained immediately
Cons
  • does not indicate amount of nickel present, only amount of nickel released
  • can yild false test results
 
What Materials Are The Safest To Use?
Contrary to what some people believe, surgical steel (#304) does contain relatively high levels of nickel. One particular grade, #430 can be obtained as a special melt and can be certified to contain less than 0.05%. However, in the U.K. this cannot be called nickel-free.

Some "nickel-free" choices included special gold-filled, titanium, 70/30 brass, phosphorous bronze, and aluminum. Casting materials and solder paste do not usually contain nickel; however, check with your supplier to be sure. Many platers not have installed nickel-free plating lines. Various substrates are used in place of nickel, such as palladium, tin and copper.

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